A guy at the flea market in Waco swore my 1084 would crack if I quenched in water, and after 4 blades I finally get it
Said to use old motor oil warmed to about 130 degrees and move the steel, and every water quench I tried came out with a hairline crack near the tang. What temp are you all running your oil at, or does it depend on the steel?
Been there with the water quench cracks, that tang area is always where they show up first. What finally worked for me was canola oil heated to around 120 to 130, basically the same range that guy told you. The big thing nobody mentions is you gotta move the blade up and down and side to side the second it goes in, not just dunk it straight down. Warm oil moves faster than cold oil so it pulls heat out quicker, but not so fast that it shocks the steel like water does. 1084 is pretty forgiving in oil as long as its warm and you keep it moving. Motor oil works but it smokes like crazy and smells awful, canola is cheap and way nicer to be around.