Trying to get a specific pleat to hold its shape was a nightmare

Honestly, I was working on a skirt design with these sharp, geometric pleats that were supposed to stand away from the body. I thought it would be a quick job with some heavy interfacing. Ngl, I went through like five different types of fusible and even tried hand-sewing wire into the seams, but everything either went limp or looked too stiff. It took me three full days of messing around before I finally got it right by combining a specific heavyweight canvas with a precise topstitching technique. Has anyone else found a good method for structural pleats that doesn't involve a crazy amount of trial and error?

3 comments

3 Comments

gray_schmidt81mo ago

Try using a double layer of buckram, it's stiff enough to hold a sharp crease.

xenarobinson1mo ago

Oh man, @gray_schmidt8, that double layer of buckram tip is gold! I actually read somewhere that some historical costumers use a mix of buckram and horsehair canvas for really complex pleats. I've found that even with the right materials, you gotta be patient with the steaming and pressing part. Your milage may vary of course, but I've had decent luck with a spray starch and a hot iron for getting things to hold.

linda6581mo ago

Oh man, the "three full days of messing around" part is too real. I once tried to make a single box pleat stand up and ended up with something that looked like a sad, melted paper fan. I mean, I was using the wrong kind of starch and everything just went floppy.